Alongside oil stain, water-based stain is one of the standard finishes in DIY woodworking. This article covers:
・What water-based stain is and isn’t
・How to apply it
using Washi Paint’s “Pore Stain” as the example.
Water-based stain typically needs a varnish topcoat. I used Washi Paint’s “Water-Based Urethane Varnish”. → I also compared “clear gloss” and “clear matte”.
Washi Paint Water-Based Pore Stain, Oak, 300mL
Washi Paint Water-Based Pore Stain, Blue, 300mL
What Water-Based Stain Is
Main characteristics:
■ Preserves the wood grain
It’s a stain that soaks into the wood, so the grain remains visible.
■ Generally needs a topcoat varnish (some products are self-sealing)
Without a topcoat, color can transfer onto whatever touches it. Most water-based stains need to be sealed with varnish. If you want to preserve the natural-wood feel as much as possible, oil stain (Watco Oil, Briwax) is a better fit.
■ Easy to handle
The solvent is water — you can thin it with water and rinse the brushes with water. Handles like watercolor paint. Fairly fast drying too.
■ No fumes
No paint thinner, so no fumes during application or drying.
■ Wider color range
Includes colors that oil stain doesn’t have — like blue.
I used a blue water-based stain on my DIY guitar build (Japanese article available; English version forthcoming).
How to Apply Water-Based Stain
<What I used here>
・Washi Paint Pore Stain (Oak)
・Washi Paint Water-Based Urethane Varnish (“clear gloss” and “clear matte”)
Big picture: brush the stain on, then topcoat with varnish.
Stain steps: ① through ⑤ below
Varnish steps: ⑥ through ⑨ below
For the varnish step, lightly sanding between coats gives a much nicer finish. Try it.
※ Bonus: a smoother surface means it’s easier to keep clean — a Swiffer / dust sweeper won’t catch on rough spots.
What You Need
<Required>
・Brush
・Cloth (rag)
・Sandpaper (around #240–#400)
<Nice to have>
・Gloves (rubber or vinyl, paint-impermeable)
・Sandpaper around #800
① Sand the wood (#240–400)
First, prep the surface with sandpaper.
#240–#400, sand with the grain.
② Brush on the stain
Brush the water-based stain onto the wood.
I used “Pore Stain” in Oak.
A small hassle, but I’d recommend wearing gloves. Water-based stain is easier to wash off than oil stain, but still no fun on your skin.
③ Wipe off excess stain with a cloth
Wipe off any stain that hasn’t soaked in.
④ Re-coat (optional)
For deeper color, let the first coat dry and apply another.
⑤ Let dry — stain is done
Once dry, the stain step is complete.
Water-based stain typically needs a varnish topcoat next.
⑥ Apply varnish (first coat)
Apply varnish with a brush.
Multiple thin coats look much better than one heavy coat.
Don’t overload the brush, and move slowly to avoid creating bubbles.
Left side in the photos = “clear gloss”; right side = “clear matte”.
⑦ Light sand between coats
Once the first varnish coat is dry, lightly sand before the next coat. (#400–#800)
Run your hand across the surface — you’ll feel rough spots in places.
Lightly sand mainly those rough spots.
Sand a little, run your hand over to check, sand again. The sanded spots may look whitish — that’s fine.
When done, wipe off the sanding dust with a clean rag.
⑧ Recoat varnish
Apply more varnish.
Coat → dry → light sand → coat
Repeat until you’re happy with the surface. Stop on a coat (no sanding after the final coat).
⑨ Done — “Clear Gloss” vs “Clear Matte” comparison
Result of finishing with “clear gloss” vs “clear matte” Water-Based Urethane Varnish. The walkthrough was on pine glue-laminated panel; I also did the same process on SPF lumber.
■ Pine glue-laminated panel + water-based stain + varnish
Left = clear gloss, right = clear matte.
■ SPF + water-based stain + varnish
Left = clear gloss, right = clear matte.
That’s the water-based stain + varnish workflow.
Hope it was useful.
Honestly, finishing is one of the most fun parts of DIY for me.
This was water-based; I’d encourage you to try oil-based (“oil stain”) too — it’s its own thing.
I have a separate article on Watco Oil (oil stain) finishing — see that next (Japanese version available; English version forthcoming).
Comments