Building a DIY Wheelchair Access Ramp at the Front Entrance

I built a ramp at our front entrance so a wheelchair can be rolled in and out for someone with limited mobility.
A few notes up front:

・This ramp isn’t designed for self-propelled use (it assumes a caregiver is pushing).
・It doesn’t comply with Japan’s Accessibility (Barrier-Free) Act.

So please treat this as a “look, you can build something like this yourself” DIY example rather than a regulation-compliant build.

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Preparing the Lumber

For the deck (top) of the ramp I used cafe-ita planks — thick Japanese cedar boards sold for DIY furniture in home improvement stores.
I cut them to a width of 80 cm (about 31″).

Cedar cafe-ita planks cut to 80 cm width for the ramp deck

For the support posts I picked up some cedar square stock at the home improvement store.

Cedar square posts for the ramp supports

For the joists that hold the deck up, I rip-cut some 2×6 SPF lumber lengthwise.

2x6 SPF lumber to be ripped down for joists

Cut with a circular saw.

Cutting the joist stock with a circular saw

Staining

For indoor woodworking I usually go in this order:
assemble → finish
That way I can skip painting the parts that won’t be visible (lazy, but efficient).
For something used outdoors like this, though, I want every surface — including hidden ones — protected. So this time I went:
finish → assemble.

I used a water-based exterior wood stain. (The color at this stage is “Teak”, but I ended up repainting later — more on that below.)

Water-based exterior wood stain

Brushed it on.

Brushing on the wood stain

And let it dry.

Stained lumber drying

Assembly

I’ll start with the sloped section first.

Building the slope

I clamped the joists to the post and adjusted the angle.

Clamping the joist to set the slope angle

With everything still clamped, I drilled a pilot hole with a cordless drill/driver,

Drilling a pilot hole

then drove screws to lock it in place.
The screws are stainless-steel coarse-thread deck screws — the same kind commonly used for outdoor wood decks.
Stainless is essential here for outdoor corrosion resistance.

Driving stainless deck screws

Here’s how the angle looks against the wall side.

Wall-side joist angle

I built up the opposite side the same way.
I used a spirit level on the boards as I went to make sure the deck stayed level side-to-side.

Checking level with a spirit level

The deck surface is coming out flat across.

Confirmed level on the deck

Laying out the deck planks.
I left about a 5 mm gap between each plank.

Deck planks laid out with 5 mm gaps

Then I screwed the deck planks down.
I used dedicated wood deck screws for this part.

GROVE
GROVE Wood Deck Screws Stainless SUS304 (5.5 x 65mm) 100 pcs
View on Amazon

I drove the screws home with an impact driver.

Driving deck screws with an impact driver

The top section is done for now.

Sloped section completed

Reinforcing the underside:
I sandwiched each post between joists for extra stiffness.

Joists sandwiching the support posts

The bottom of the ramp has to meet the ground smoothly, so I cut the lower end at an angle, like this:

Lower end cut at an angle to meet the ground

Like so — sitting cleanly on the ground.

Ramp foot sitting flush with the ground

Then I screwed down the deck planks the same way as before.

Deck planks screwed in place on the slope

And the slope section is done.

Building the flat landing

At this stage there’s still no flat platform connecting the slope to the front door, so that’s what I built next.

Gap between the ramp and the front door

The basic approach is the same as the slope.
First, cut the lumber to size and stain it.

Cut and stained lumber for the flat landing

Build the base frame like this:

Base frame for the flat landing

Test-fitting the deck planks on top of the assembled base frame.

Deck planks placed on top of base frame

Looks good (still loose at this point — not screwed down yet).
I’ll lock it in.

Landing test fit

Driving the deck screws with the impact driver.

Screwing down the landing planks

One end ended up with a small gap, so I needed to fill it.

Small gap at one end

Cut a board with the circular saw,

Cutting a fill piece
Trimmed fill piece

and stained it.

Staining the fill piece

Then screwed it onto the end. Done.

Fill piece screwed in place

Reinforcing the underside.

Underside view of the landing

I added joists to sandwich the legs from the inside as well.

Inside reinforcement of the landing

Set it in place — done!

…or so I thought. The color came out a bit too bright for the surroundings, and it kind of stood out in a not-great way.

Ramp installed but the color stands out

Re-staining and Adding the Step

Since this is right at the front door, I see it every day, and the color was bothering me.
So I decided to re-stain over the top, this time using a “Walnut” tone.

Atom Support
Atom House Paint Water-based Wood Ever Protect (Durable Stain) 1.6L Walnut
View on Amazon
Walnut stain

Top coat applied.
You can still see hints of the lighter undercoat in spots, but I’m calling it good enough.

Ramp re-stained in walnut

For the small step in front of the ramp, I cheated and bought a ready-made one.

Off-the-shelf step

Setting it in place at the front of the ramp.
I’d like to DIY a proper step at some point in the future.

Step placed at the bottom of the ramp

Finished

Done!

The slope is honestly pretty steep, and pushing a wheelchair up and down takes some effort. Ideally a longer ramp with a gentler grade would be better.
In our case the available space was limited, so this is what we ended up with.

Finished wheelchair access ramp at the front entrance

I realize a wheelchair-access DIY ramp probably isn’t on most readers’ to-build lists…

…but the construction approach is very similar to building a wood deck.
I have an older article on building a 2×4 wood deck — if you’re new to deck building, that one pairs well with this:

→ DIY Wood Deck Built with 2×4 Lumber — Step-by-Step Guide

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