DIY Table Tennis Paddle from Wood — Building a Shakehand and a Penholder

I built table tennis paddles from wood. I made two types: a shakehand and a penholder.

The main material was a single panel of glued acacia board from the home center (about $6). Combined with tools I already had, I cut out two blades from it.

Up front, let me be honest: these paddles are not at a competition level. But they look the part (well enough!), and for knocking the ball around with family or friends they work just fine.

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Materials and tools

Here are the main materials and tools I used.

  • Glued acacia board (200 x 600 x 15 mm / about $6)
  • Wood for the grip (I reused an offcut of fingerboard wood from a guitar build, but an offcut of the same panel works fine)
  • Wood glue (Titebond)
  • Table tennis rubber (the sheet you stick on the face) and rubber-specific adhesive
  • Router (I used a baseplate I made myself)
  • Jigsaw
  • Clamps
  • Rasp and sandpaper
  • Utility knife or scissors (for trimming the rubber)

1. Make the paddle template

First, decide on the shape. I looked up the shape of a real paddle online and traced it onto paper to make a template.

I traced mine in CAD, but enlarging or reducing a photo of a paddle on a copier to make a full-size template works just as well.

Tracing the paddle shape onto paper
Tracing the paddle shape onto paper

Cut out both templates — one for the shakehand and one for the penholder.

Cut-out paper templates for shakehand and penholder paddles
The cut-out templates (left: shakehand, right: penholder)

2. Buy the wood

Once the templates set the size, I bought the wood at the home center.
I chose a glued acacia board measuring 200 x 600 x 15 mm, which cost about $6.

Lay the templates on the board to confirm that both blades will fit.

Test-fitting the templates on the acacia board
Test-fitting the templates on the board

3. Adjust the thickness with a router

The board I bought was 15 mm thick — too thick as-is for a paddle.
So I used a router to take it down to the thickness I needed.

My targets were 6 mm for the shakehand and 11 mm for the penholder.
Set the router bit to the depth you want to remove.
Don’t take it all in one pass, though — that puts a lot of load on the bit, so extend the bit a few millimeters at a time and work down gradually.

Setting the router bit depth
Setting the router bit to the depth you want to remove

By the way, the router baseplate I’m using here is one I made myself. I wrote up how to build it in a separate article, so check it out if you’re interested.

Rout the paddle area little by little until it reaches the target thickness.

Adjusting the board thickness with the router
Adjusting the thickness with the router
The board after routing
The board after routing

4. Glue on the template and cut with a jigsaw

Once the thickness is set, glue the template onto the wood.

Gluing the template onto the wood
Gluing on the template

Following the template line, cut the wood with a jigsaw.

Cutting along the template line with a jigsaw
Cutting with the jigsaw

5. Build the penholder

Let’s start with the penholder. Here’s the rough-cut blade.

The rough-cut penholder blade
The rough-cut penholder blade

Next, make the grip. Stack the grip wood on the blade and mark the shape directly with a pen.

Tracing the grip shape onto the wood
Tracing the grip shape

Cut the grip wood to the shape you marked.

Stacking the wood pieces for the grip
Stacking the wood for the grip

Glue the grip to the blade with Titebond. It’s a strong wood glue that holds firmly.

Titebond Original Wood Glue, 4 oz bottle
Titebond
Titebond Original Wood Glue, 4 oz (5062)
View on Amazon

Clamp it to press the joint together, then leave it for a day to dry.

Applying Titebond and clamping the grip
Apply Titebond and clamp
IRWIN
IRWIN QUICK-GRIP One-Handed Micro Bar Clamp, 4-1/2 in, 2-Pack (530062)
View on Amazon

Once it’s bonded, finish the whole thing with sandpaper.

Finishing the penholder with sandpaper
Finishing with sandpaper

That completes the penholder blade (I’ll apply the rubber for both later).

Finished penholder blade
Penholder blade finished

6. Build the shakehand

Next up is the shakehand.

The rough-cut shakehand blade
The rough-cut shakehand blade

For the grip, I had some fingerboard wood left over from a guitar build that was a nice color, so I decided to use that offcut. Of course, you can use an offcut of the original board instead.

Grip template on leftover fingerboard wood
Grip template

Glue on the grip template and cut it with a jigsaw.

Cutting the grip pieces with a jigsaw
Cutting with the jigsaw

I cut out two grip pieces — they sandwich the blade from both sides.

The two cut-out grip pieces
The cut-out grip pieces

Just like the penholder, glue them on with Titebond.

Gluing the grip pieces with Titebond
Gluing with Titebond

Clamp it down firmly.

Clamping the glued grip
Clamping

After a day, the bond was complete.

Grip bonded after a day of clamping
Bonded after a day of clamping

As-is, the grip is boxy and hard to hold, so I started by roughing it down with a rasp.

Rough shaping the grip with a rasp
Rough shaping with a rasp

Once the rough shape was there, I finished by sanding it down by hand, checking the feel of the grip as I went.

Refining the grip with sandpaper
Refining with sandpaper

The grip is done.

Finished shakehand paddle
Shakehand finished

7. Woodworking complete

Now both the penholder and the shakehand are finished.

Finished shakehand and penholder blades
Both blades finished — shakehand and penholder

That’s it for the woodworking. From here, I’ll apply the rubber so they can actually be used as paddles.

8. Apply the rubber

Apply the rubber-specific adhesive to both the blade and the rubber.

Applying rubber-specific adhesive to blade and rubber
Applying rubber-specific adhesive

Once it’s stuck on, trim the rubber to the outline of the blade.

Trimming the rubber to the blade outline
Trimming the rubber to the blade outline

Finished

With the rubber applied, they’re done. They came out looking pretty convincing.

Finished paddles with rubber applied
Finished with the rubber applied

Since I shaped the grip to my own hand, it feels good to hold.

The two finished DIY paddles with red and black rubber

How they feel to actually use

Honestly, compared to a real paddle, both the bounce and the feel are mediocre. The ball speed and the satisfying feedback on contact are clearly better with a commercial paddle — plain wood just can’t keep up.

They’re no good for competition, but for casually rallying with friends or family they’re perfectly usable. As a “the fun is in playing with a paddle you made yourself” kind of project, it was very satisfying.

Wrap-up

With about $6 of wood and tools I already had, I was able to build two table tennis paddles — a shakehand and a penholder.

The performance can’t match a store-bought paddle, but it’s a DIY project that lets you experience the whole flow of woodworking: routing to thickness, cutting out with a jigsaw, and shaping the grip. If you’re that rare person who loves both table tennis and DIY, give it a try.

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