The Easiest Palm Router Upgrade — Wider Acrylic Baseplate

Extending the baseplate of my palm router with a piece of acrylic dramatically improved stability and accuracy.

Calling it a “DIY baseplate” is a stretch — it’s literally drilling 5 holes in a piece of off-the-shelf acrylic.

For how easy it is, the payoff is huge. If you own a palm router, this is a great little upgrade.

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Stock Baseplate vs. DIY Baseplate

Comparison between the stock baseplate and the DIY one.

Stock baseplate

The stock baseplate that came with the router.

It’s held to the router body with just 4 screws.
Remove those screws and the baseplate comes off.

Stock palm router baseplate

DIY baseplate (finished)

The router with the DIY acrylic baseplate installed:

Router with DIY acrylic baseplate

The much wider footprint lets you rout across a bigger area with way more stability.

Here’s how to make it.

Building the DIY Baseplate

I used 5 mm-thick acrylic. Just an off-the-shelf acrylic sheet with a few holes drilled.

About the acrylic

The acrylic I used:

180 mm × 320 mm (~7″ × 12.5″), 5 mm thick

Thinner sheets flex too much, so 5 mm is about right.

It’s an “Acrysunday”-brand sheet from the home improvement store, about 2,000 yen (~$13).

Also available online:

Acrysunday
Acrysunday Acrylic Hard-Coat Sheet, Clear, 180 x 320 x 5 mm
View on Amazon

Drilling the acrylic

Time to drill.

First, remove the stock baseplate.
Just 4 screws. Comes off easily. The screws are 4 mm dia.

Removing stock baseplate

If I drill matching screw holes in the acrylic, I can mount it to the router.

Lay the stock baseplate on the acrylic and mark the 4 hole positions with a marker.

Marking screw hole positions on acrylic

Drill the marked positions with a power drill.
Screw is 4 mm, so I drilled 5 mm holes for clearance.

Drilling 5 mm holes for screws

The center needs a bigger hole for the router bit to pass through.

I used a hole saw on the drill — 38 mm hole.
(Hole saw bit was about 1,000 yen at the home improvement store.)

Cutting 38 mm center hole with hole saw

Center hole done.

Acrylic with center hole and 4 screw holes

All the holes are drilled, but the 4 screw holes need a counterbore so the screw heads sit flush.
I used an 8 mm bit for the counterbore.

Counterboring with 8 mm bit

Screw heads flush with the surface — no protrusion to drag on the workpiece.
※ Use flat-head (countersunk) screws.

Flat-head screws sitting flush

Done!

Mounted on the router:

DIY baseplate installed on the router

The wider footprint makes routing across larger workpieces dramatically more stable, like in this photo:

Routing with the wide DIY baseplate

If you own a palm router, definitely worth trying.

Related Japanese article: DIY router table (English version forthcoming).

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